About this collection
Fifteen chain necklaces, from $369 to $1,460. All solid gold, all plain chains — no pendants, no stones. The constructions are wheat, figaro, mariner, curb, rolo, box, cable, link and bar, in slim, flat and textured variants, with two mixed-metal designs.
This is the foundation category. A plain gold chain is the piece most people buy last and wear most, and it is the only category on the site where the technical construction of the piece matters more than its appearance. Related: gold necklaces with pendants, pendant necklaces, chain bracelets and everyday jewelry.
Chain constructions, and how they differ
Wheat
Many small links woven in a braided pattern. One of the most robust constructions there is, because stress is distributed across the whole chain rather than concentrated at any point. It drapes well and holds its shape. If durability is the priority, this is the construction to look at.
Curb and figaro
Flattened interlocking links, twisted so they lie flat. Curb is uniform; figaro alternates one longer link with several short ones. Both are strong, familiar and unisex, and both lie flat against the skin rather than rolling.
Mariner and anchor
Oval links with a bar across the centre, derived from ship's chain. Distinctive and substantial-looking, and the bar adds rigidity to each link.
Rolo and cable
Simple round or oval links joined in sequence. The most classic construction and the most versatile as a base for a pendant, because the uniform links sit evenly however the chain moves. Strength depends almost entirely on wire gauge.
Box
Square links forming a smooth, angular chain that reflects light in flat planes rather than sparkling. Clean and modern-looking, and it holds a pendant well because it resists twisting.
Bar and link
Alternating bars or elongated rectangular links. The most contemporary designs here. Stress concentrates at the joints between segments, so these need a heavier gauge than an interlocking chain to survive the same treatment.
Choosing a construction for how you will wear it
The practical question is what the chain has to do.
As a base for a pendant, choose rolo, cable or box. Uniform links sit evenly and resist twisting, which keeps a pendant oriented. Avoid bar and link chains, where a pendant sits awkwardly across a segment joint.
For permanent daily wear, choose wheat, curb or figaro. Interlocking constructions distribute stress and survive constant movement without concentrating wear at any single point.
For layering, choose slim gauges in different constructions. Varying the construction rather than just the length is what makes a layered set look assembled rather than repetitive.
As a statement worn alone, mariner, bar and textured designs read most clearly on their own.
Why these are all solid gold
A plain chain is the strongest case for solid gold in the entire catalogue, and the reason is structural rather than aspirational.
A chain is many small links moving against each other constantly. Every link rubs its neighbours with every movement of the wearer's head. On top of that, the clasp is handled twice a day and the back of the neck takes abrasion from collars and hair.
On solid 14k gold — 58.3% pure throughout — that friction is just wear. The metal underneath is the same metal, links can be replaced, clasps repaired, and the chain repolished decades later. On a surface-layer material, the gold thins at every link contact point simultaneously, and it cannot be restored. This is why there is no vermeil chain in this collection. See why 14K solid gold.
Length
Lengths are 14, 15, 16, 17 and 18 inches, with adjustable sets in S (14-15-16), M (16-17-18) and L (18-19-20).
16 inches sits on or just below the collarbone. The best base layer if you intend to layer, and the shortest length that works comfortably with most clothing.
18 inches sits a couple of inches below the collarbone. The most flexible single choice, and the standard position if a pendant will be added.
20 inches and above sits on the sternum and is what works with turtlenecks and high necks.
These chains are unisex — fourteen of the fifteen are tagged for both men and women — and men generally take longer lengths, typically 20" and above. See the size guide.
Gauge, and what it costs
Gauge is what accounts for most of the price spread here. A chain is priced by gold weight, and doubling the wire thickness more than doubles the metal in the piece.
A finer chain is more delicate visually and more vulnerable to snagging and breaking. A heavier chain survives more and reads as more substantial. For a chain worn permanently, going slightly heavier than looks necessary is the safer choice — the failure mode of a chain that is too fine is that it breaks, and a broken chain is usually a lost chain.
Mixed metal
Two pieces here mix metal colours — yellow with rose or white gold. These solve a specific problem: they let a chain sit alongside jewelry in either tone without clashing, which is useful if you own both.
Worn alone, a mixed-metal chain also reads as more deliberate than a plain one, because the combination is evidently a choice. See what colour gold suits your skin tone and rose gold.
Care and ordering
Store chains hanging or laid flat, never coiled in a drawer. Coiling is how chains tangle, and freeing a tangled fine chain usually kinks a link. A kinked link is a weak point that eventually breaks there.
Check the clasp every few months on anything worn daily. Keep gold away from chlorine, which attacks the alloy metals. A soft dry cloth restores shine. See the care guide and how to care for gold jewelry.
Production is 4–6 business days before dispatch. US orders ship from Connecticut with duties included; UK, EU, Canada and Australia orders from London. 365-day warranty. See shipping and returns.
Buying a chain for a pendant you already own
A common reason to be on this page, and there are three things to check.
Gauge relative to pendant weight. A heavy pendant on a fine chain wears at the bail and stresses the links until the chain fails there. It also turns and sits sideways, because the chain lacks the weight to keep it oriented. If a pendant keeps flipping, the chain is too light.
Bail size relative to link size. The pendant's bail has to pass over the chain, which sounds obvious and is the most common practical problem. A chunky chain will not thread through a small bail.
Construction. Rolo, cable and box chains hold a pendant evenly and resist twisting. Bar and link chains place a pendant awkwardly across a segment joint. See pendant necklaces.
Chains for men
Fourteen of the fifteen chains here are tagged for both men and women, and the differences in practice come down to two variables rather than to design.
Length. Men typically wear 20" and above, which sits at or below the sternum. An 18" chain on most men sits high on the neck, which is a different and generally less comfortable look.
Gauge. Heavier gauges read as more traditionally masculine, and they are also more practical for a chain worn permanently, since the failure mode of a chain that is too fine is breaking.
Curb, figaro, mariner and wheat are the constructions most often chosen, all of which lie flat and are robust. A very fine box or cable chain reads as more delicate, which may or may not be the intent. See gifts for pieces that suit either.
What a good chain costs, and why
The spread here is $369 to $1,460 for pieces that look superficially similar, and the difference is almost entirely gold weight.
A chain is priced by the metal in it. Doubling the wire gauge more than doubles the gold, because the cross-sectional area scales with the square of the thickness. Length adds proportionally on top of that. Neither is a markup for design; it is material.
What this means practically is that a heavier chain is not a more luxurious version of a lighter one — it is a more durable one. If you intend to wear a chain permanently and never remove it, going one step heavier than looks necessary is the sensible choice, because a broken chain is usually a lost chain. See all solid gold and everyday jewelry.
Frequently asked questions
Which chain construction is most durable?
Wheat, then curb and figaro. Interlocking constructions distribute stress across the whole chain rather than concentrating it. Bar and link designs concentrate stress at segment joints and need a heavier gauge.
Which chain works best with a pendant?
Rolo, cable or box. Uniform links sit evenly and resist twisting, which keeps a pendant oriented. A pendant sits awkwardly on a bar or link chain.
What is the price range?
$369 to $1,460, all solid gold. Gauge accounts for most of the spread — a chain is priced by gold weight.
Why are there no vermeil chains here?
Because a chain is many links rubbing against each other constantly, plus a clasp handled twice a day and a section abraded by collars. A surface layer thins at every contact point at once and cannot be restored.
What length should I choose?
Sixteen inches as a layering base, 18" as the most flexible single choice, 20" and above for turtlenecks. These chains are unisex, and men generally take 20" and above.
Should I buy a heavier or finer chain?
For permanent daily wear, slightly heavier than looks necessary. The failure mode of a chain that is too fine is breaking, and a broken chain is usually a lost one.
How should I store a chain?
Hanging or laid flat, never coiled. Coiling causes tangles, and freeing a tangled fine chain usually kinks a link — a kinked link is a weak point that eventually breaks.
Can I layer these chains?
Yes. Vary the construction as well as the length — different link patterns at staggered lengths look assembled, where the same chain at three lengths looks repetitive.
Are these chains unisex?
Almost all of them. Fourteen of the fifteen are tagged for both men and women; length is the main variable, with men typically choosing 20" and above.
What do mixed metal chains do?
They sit alongside jewelry in either gold tone without clashing, which is useful if you own both yellow and white or rose gold pieces.